Does Removing HEMA and TPO Impact Gel Curing and Gloss?

A subtle change is taking place in the nail industry. It's not only about how the gel polish looks on the nail; an increasing number of artists are also asking about its contents. Two ingredients that keep coming up in these conversations are HEMA and TPO. For good reason. Over time, both have been associated with skin sensitivity, particularly for those who use gel daily as a part of their profession. However, this is the one thing I get asked by salon owners the most. If I remove HEMA and TPO from my gel, will it still cure properly? Will it remain shiny? These are good questions. Of course, we have years of experience formulating without these ingredients and have much to share at MANNFl.

What HEMA and TPO Actually Do in Regular Gels

To get rid of them, it is helpful to have an understanding of why they are so prevalent in the first place. HEMA is a small monomer which contributes to strong adhesion of gel to the natural nail. It is cost effective and easy to use and that is why doing this is a practice of many manufacturers. TPO is a photoinitiator. It is the element responsible for absorbing the light whether it be UV or LED and beginning a reaction that transforms the liquid gel into a solid, strong surface. They have made a good partnership for years. The issue is not with them while they are applying. The issue is what happens when there is multiple contact with the skin over time. Even low exposures can cause itching, redness, and other symptoms in the long run for nail artists. This is why we and many other formulators, have been working to develop effective alternatives.

How Modern Formulations Cure Without HEMA and TPO

Fortunately, chemistry is advanced now. The removal of HEMA and TPO must not be interpreted as taking away curing ability. It simply means that the different molecules are used. Rather than using smaller HEMA monomers, we use larger adhesion monomers that will still adhere to the nail, but do not penetrate the skin so readily. We use alternative photoinitiators that are fantastic with LED and UV light, rather than TPO. In fact, many of our formulas that do not contain HEMA and TPO cure just as rapidly as conventional formulas. Each batch is tested in our own 2,000 m² sterile workshop to ensure complete curing under standard lamps. The key is balance. If you have not added enough photoinitiator, the gel will remain sticky. Excessive amounts can cause the surface to cure unevenly. After 13 years of R&D, we have found the sweet spot.

What Happens to Gloss and Shine Long Term

That's where many people are happy to be surprised. HEMA and TPO are not removed to decrease the gloss. In some instances, the proper formulation of alternatives can actually enhance shine retention. Why? Some alternative photoinitiators form a denser, more tightly cross linked polymer network on the surface. This denser surface scatters light evenly and is less dulling from hand washing, lotions and usage. We have recently tested our HEMA free and TPO free top coats directly in salon applications against standard top coats. The shine persisted the same length of time in the United States, Italy and Brazil when tested side-by-side with partners in these countries. Some artists even reported our alternative formulas looked glossier after two weeks of wear! It is not a lack of ingredients that is the secret. It's in the careful choice of what takes their place.

Real Performance Testing From Our Global Partners

I always believe in the actual data, never the lab data. So let me relate the words of our customers. Our HEMA-free and TPO-free line was used by a distributor in Poland for all her products. Initially, she was apprehensive. Would her clients feel different from the applications or long term use? After six months, she reported a slight decrease in the number of returns due to lifting and dullness. We have tested our alternative formula with a salon chain in Mexico on the same lamps and application techniques with their traditional gel. They could not tell — by sight or by wear duration — which one was which. What they did see was a decrease in the number of complaints they received from their manicure or pedicure artist for nail irritation. That's the true prize. There's no reason why you can't go for both safety and performance. You can have both with the proper formulation.

Change can be daunting, particularly when your business is reliant on consistent results. The gel industry is changing though and the choice today is greater than ever. We at MANNFl feel that there is no reason for inferior performance whenever safer ingredients are used. Our gels cure well, shimmer and last through the actual lifespan. From base and top coat to builder gels, color gels, cat eye gels and blooming gel, we offer products without HEMA or TPO, but with quality. Customization of brands for ODM/OEM is also possible as we offer this service for the creation of their own cleaner line. Please come and experience the difference in our factory in Yiwu. Health and Art can go together.