HEMA-Free Gel vs Regular Gel: Which Is Safer for Nail Artists?

If you have some experience in the nail business, then you most likely have heard this term more and more often: HEMA. Perhaps you've experienced something similar. A client complains of itchiness or redness around her nails. Then, after a long day of back to back appointments, your fingers begin to feel sensitive. While such a discussion might be difficult, it is necessary. The health of a nail artist is as important as the beauty they puts into the product. So let's have an open discussion regarding HEMA-free gel vs regular gel. 

What Exactly Is HEMA and Why Does It Matter?

HEMA is the compound hydroxyethyl methacrylate. HEMA is a small molecule that helps the polish bond strongly to the natural nail. HEMA is a very common ingredient in gel formulations with no additives, as it exhibits good performance and is also cost effective. However, because the molecule is small, it can sometimes penetrate the nail plate or be absorbed into the skin. If one is exposed occasionally, this does not cause a problem for most individuals. However, there is a possibility to develop sensitivity when using gel for nail art every day, particularly on the skin. Symptoms can range from minor itching or redness around the cuticle area to more severe itching and symptoms. After some artists have been using gels longer, they may develop full allergies which prevent any use of standard gels. This is where HEMA-free gel comes in handy.

How HEMA-Free Gel Protects the Artist Who Works Daily

Consider how you spend your work week. You prime nails, you paint color, you seal with top coat. Small amounts of uncured gel may come in contact with skin even when using caution. Perhaps a brush slips. Perhaps a customer moves her hand unexpectedly. Those little exposures accumulate over the months and years. The HEMA free gel is used to replace the small HEMA molecules with larger molecules, which do not penetrate the skin as easily. HEMA-free gel is not allergy free. That is a claim any product can't make. For many nail artists, however, the conversion to HEMA free formulations has led a significant decrease in skin reactions. Our HEMA free products are manufactured in our dust-free sterile workshop using the same quality control as our standard products. There is no compromise on performance and safety.

What About Strength and Wear Time?

This is the next question nail artists ask. If this is the case, is HEMA-free gel safe but not long-lasting? The simple answer is no — it can be long-lasting, but only if formulated correctly. There are some inexpensive HEMA free gels available that don't stick as well. They may rise up at the edges in a few days or may not hold up as long. That is a formulation problem, not a HEMA-free problem. For years, our R&D team, with 13 years of experience, has been perfecting the HEMA-free product line at MANNFl. With all our HEMA free gels, we use alternative adhesion monomers and carefully balanced chemistry to make sure our gels remain in place for 2-3 weeks with proper application. Many of our salon partners are unable to see the difference between our regular and HEMA-free gels in blind tests.  

Which One Should You Choose for Your Salon Practice?

It's not a "one size fits all" situation. When no sensitivity has been demonstrated with either you or your clients, good quality regular gel can be used. This can be less expensive and more readily available. However, if you work long hours, notice itching or redness on your own hands, or have clients who are sensitive, then HEMA-free gel is well worth considering. Many of our MANNFl partners in the United States, Poland and Italy still offer both options in their salons. For most of their clients they use the regular gel, but if the client has concerns or chooses to use it for their own nails, they switch to HEMA-free. It's better to prevent than to treat. By taking precautions for your skin now, you will be able to enjoy what you love much longer.

Your hands are the greatest resources as a nail artist. They need to be treated well and with respect. When it comes to working with a gel manufacturer, whether it's without HEMA or the traditional gel, the main consideration is finding a trusted partner. Here at MANNFl, we have both options available as we believe that artists should have a choice. Our base and top coats, color gels, builder gels and function gels are formulated for beauty and safety. If you're looking to have your own signature line with additional safety features, we can also provide ODM and OEM customizations. Please visit our factory in Yiwu and experience our artist-focused gel products.